Climbing a kumquat tree

A detergent commercial from the early 80's featured two women lamenting the dirt covering their offspring's clothing after they had climbed a kumquat tree. We had no idea what this strange sounding tree was, and the description of a sour orange did not sound appealing. Still, when the opportunity to taste one finally presented itself when I lived in Australia, I gave them a try. I have been hooked ever since.

The Pike Place Market is my favorite place to buy them on my lunch hour, and a small bag will give me a few days of a nutritious and refreshing snack. The tart pulp and the sweet skin, which is all zest and no pith, tease and cleanse the palate in a way that apples and bananas just can't come near. And they aren't near the mess of other citrus fruit; even the plump, sweet clementines that showed up this winter need to be peeled. One week they were so sweet, so delicious that I ate over a pound in one sitting at my desk. Well, whatever else I ate at lunch caused me to have gas in the elevator. And wouldn't you know it, the next person who walked in remarked about fresh oranges.

If overcooked brussel sprouts are "little balls of hell", as one roomate called them, then kumquats are little balls of sunshine. Still most people are reluctant to try them, and usually won't try a second one. So I read Ms Hesser's Sunday article on kumquats with glee on an otherwise glum morning. (The stacks of dishes and wine glasses from last night's fondue party of 12 people put a big damper on the AM.) Her recipes called for duck(!), dates (!), arugala(!), sugar(!), Parmesean (!) and of course, kumquats (!!!).

Tom and Larry came over for dinner, and I prepared the following to go with the Chicken Kiev featured in Cooks. Its so much fun cooking for or with them. Once, when I made the Pan-Roasted Chicken, Tom risked Larry's Look of Judgement to lick his plate, which I always do when I am alone. But we all made pigs of ourselves when I served a whole molten chocolate cake, and the three of us ate it all in one sitting. No wonder none of my pants fit.)

















Salad of Kumquats, Dates and Shaved Parmesan (adapted from Amanda Hesser)
5 kumquats
4 handfuls baby arugula
½ cup parsley leaves
2 Medjool dates, pitted and diced
¼ cup Parmesan shavings (made with a vegetable peeler or truffle slicer)
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.
Slice the kumquats into thin rounds, discarding the seeds. Combine the arugula, parsley, dates, kumquats and Parmesan in a large bowl. Whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Pour over the salad and toss. Serves 4.

And if that is not sweet enough for you, check out this recipe which she adapted.














Candied Kumkuats (adapted from Dinners at Lucques," by Suzanne Goin)
1 cup sugar
2 cups water
1/2 pound kumquats
1. In a medium saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil, stirring until dissolved.
2. Add the kumquats, cover the fruit with a piece of parchment paper and a small plate or lid to keep them submerged. 3. Simmer over low heat until the kumquats are translucent, about 25 minutes.
4. Drain the fruit and reserve the syrup. Serve with cheese or ice cream. The syrup may also be reduced and drizzled on toast spread with butter. Makes 1/2 pound.